THE SUPER PIT…. SUPER BIG SCAR IN THE LAND

After a hot day driving to Kalgoorlie, we arrived at our caravan park only to see the sparkling waters of the pool awaiting us. A very quick set up and we were straight to the pool. We had come to Kalgoorlie at this time because it was Oscar’s birthday and again, like Coober Pedy, he was hoping to find riches. This was the first birthday of the kids that we were celebrating on the road and keeping presents hidden in the van had not been easy. We were glad we could finally hand them over.

The morning of the big “10” was filled with present giving, pancakes and a trip to the Super Pit store to find gold. After only 15 minutes, Oscar, being the patient person he is, decided that it was all too hard and that this was not where he was to make his fortune. 

The trucks they had on display were from the mine and were absolutely huge. The kids sat in the wheels of one of them which exaggerated the size even further. These vehicles burn 185 litres of fuel per hour, costing over $6000 to fill the tank and with a top speed of 12km/h when loaded they travel nearly 1.8 million km in their lifespan. 

It was getting hot, so we went inside to watch a video on the mining industry - propaganda really! Josh and I left slightly sceptical about the positive aspects of this scar in the land.

Back to the caravan park for a swim, lunch and cake. Oscar had decided that this year his birthday cake would be like taking a visit to Cold Rock Ice-creamery. With vanilla ice cream, a frozen chopping board and a variety of chosen lollies mixed together, we attempted to mimic some Cold Rock creations, and with reasonable success. OJ had planned an afternoon visit to the local leisure centre to enjoy the pool and a water slide. Unfortunately, Jem couldn’t go on them as he was too young, but it was a lot of fun anyway.

After a small amount of research on Google, we found an Indian restaurant that according to Urbanspoon was worth 4 stars. Oscar hysterically took this to mean that it was a 4 star restaurant, expensive and the best around. We just went with it….. Many of you would have spoken to him and heard about this restaurant as he describes to everyone, even his classmates, that he went to a 4 star restaurant for his birthday. 

As mentioned in previous entries Jem has developed a flair for fashion and since Kalgoorlie was the largest centre we had visited in some time (boasting a Target and all), Jem was keen to add a tie to his wardrobe. Please see below as he sports it out for the, so called, 4-star dining experience.

We hadn’t visited the super pit as yet, so an obligatory drive was in order before we left. It was absolutely unbelievable. A massive 3.6 km in length and around 450m metres in depth, this was truly a sight. The mine is open 365 days of the year 24 hours a day. The lifespan of the mine is predicted to end at 2021 after making approximately 71 billion dollars. 

Our next stop, Esperance on the south west coastline of Western Australia. This is where Josh would leave us for a long stint of 8 days.

Nothingness on the Nullabor? No way!

So mentally we were preparing ourselves for the trip across the Nullabor Plain. Some 1800km of driving which was supposedly boring to many people we had talked to along the way. The car was ready for the long trip, the kids were geared up with movies and homework , and plenty of food packed in the car.

Of most concern to the grey nomads we had spoken to about the Nullabor, was the price of petrol. We had been versed on all the stops so that we could save that ever important $5.00. Although at the time, we ridiculed them, we (Josh) did find ourselves pulling into petrol stations and then pulling straight out as the price of diesel edged $2 a litre. All the while Tracey voicing her concern that the next petrol station would be closed or out of petrol.

The first day of driving was just perfect weather for crossing and no hint of the feared headwind that we had so frequently been warned about. The Eyre Highway followed the rugged coastline for quite a while. We weren’t really sure of what to expect, but for some reason, we were thinking of desolate land with lots of nothing. Actually, this couldn’t be further from the truth. The ocean views along the coastline are spectacular and although there isn’t a lot of variety in the vegetation along the way, there are still many Conservation Parks, caves and coastal scrub to watch out for.

The wedge-tail eagles were in abundance. They were big, fat and slow to take off. Apparently, their sluggish behaviour is due to the fact that they have gorged themselves on road kill and can’t quite lift themselves into the air as fast as normal. Luckily on one occasion, we were able to catch a glimpse of four large birds feasting on dead roo in the middle of the road.

After many hours in the car we stopped at the Australian Bight lookout for lunch and a quick walk to view the coastline. In the whale season, this is one of the best places to view the migration of southern rights. Unfortunately, we were a bit early for the whales, but what a beautiful view nonetheless. A quick bite to eat and a toilet stop (the kids needed convincing to go as there was a brown snake sighted minutes before in the toilet) and we were on our way. Fruit was the snack of the day. Our mission was to consume as much of our remaining fruit as possible as the border quarantine area was fast approaching.

We decided to travel as far as we could the first day and attempt to cross in just 3 days. The kids had been great and although they had immersed themselves in a movie marathon, they were getting ready to stop. There are many rest areas along the Nullabor that one can pull in and stay overnight, so we were trying to find the ideal one with a toilet if possible. We finally found one, although a little dirty with overflowing bins, we set up for the night. Tracey had taken a chicken out the night before which we didn’t use so it was roast chicken, crispy potatoes, broccoli and gravy for dinner. Not quite the meal you have when you just pull over for the night, but it was delicious anyway.

The following morning was probably one of our earliest starts, although we were having a good deal of trouble working out just what the time was. The end of daylight saving combined with some very confusing information about changing time zones had us completely baffled and even our iphone seemed to have it wrong! Thankfully, it didn't really matter to us.

Now neither Tracey or Josh are known to gamble, nor do we encourage it amongst the children, but Ruby and Oscar began playing a serious game of 21 in the car. After deciding that it wasn’t as much fun playing with nothing, they soon convinced us that a bag of lollies from the next roadhouse was in order to really get the game into full swing. And for anyone who knows Ruby, gambling with lollies really means business!

Westward bound, still trying to find the elusive camel that inhabits the Nullarbor, the drive continued. The day was again long, but the scenery and the vegetation was changing quite a bit. Each part of this journey was still quite interesting. It makes you appreciate the size of this country and the harshness both the explorers and the Indigenous inhabitants faced whilst travelling and living within this landscape.

As we came to the official end of the Nullabor, the scenery was very typically what you imagine parts of Western Australia to be. Beautiful forested hilltops and red rocky outcrops surrounded us as we pulled into Fraser Range Station for the night. Although not currently a working sheep station, Fraser Range is a lovely homestead catering for travellers across the Nullabor. The gardens are filled with a variety of Bougainvilleas and the campfire in the evening as the sun is setting makes it a perfect overnight spot to rest.

An early start the next morning sees us head straight for gold country, Kalgoorlie.

Surrounded by sand

Finally on our way to Fowlers, we turned off the highway and down to the Bay. The first 10km were fine, but the following 12km on an unsealed road were a little rough with the caravan. The patches of fine corrugations causing us to shudder at our cautious speed of barely 10km/h. Without the van we could fly over these at 70 without even noticing, but with the van in tow, a little more care was required. Fortunately, despite it being slow going and us wondering whether it would all be worth it, we didn’t lose any doors and our wheel bearings weren’t shaken loose. Fowlers Bay was a nice spot, the park right on the beach, our van parked under a shady tree and no internet or phone reception. Even better for the kids (and for us), a family with some children they had met initially in the Flinders Ranges and then in Port Lincoln. Needless to say, we didn’t see much of the kids for a day or so. Fowlers Bay is one of the best spots to view migrating southern right whales. We were regrettably a little early. 

In the early evening a camp fire was lit and the kids pulled out some marshmallows they had been saving for such an occasion. Jeremy claimed he had ‘a marshmallow tummy ache’ for the following 4 days - he insisted it was the marshmallows. After a few conversations over the campfire we had planned the following day - a venture to Scotts Beach to the west and beach drive, perhaps even tackle some sand dunes. 

On a day of perfect weather we set off to discover a near perfect beach. Beautiful white sand, crystal clear waves gently lapping at the shore, the water was beckoning us to become immersed. 

We travelled half the length of the beach, trying to remain in the hard sand which seemed difficult and I realised that we had neglected to lower our tyre pressure. But given the early challenge of driving on full tyre pressure we decided to give the dunes a miss. After selecting a beautiful and what would appear safe place to swim on this deserted beach, I hadn’t realised it would be so dangerous to get my gear off and go for a swim. Having seen me naked just about every day of their short lives, my family took a sudden interest in trying to photograph me in my birthday suit. They succeeded. 

Another really memorable swim - no dolphins or seals this time but an eerily large shadow moving across the shallow water in front of where we were swimming. It turned out to be a dense school of fish - you might be able to see it in the background below. 

We had signed up that evening for the camp cook up and we weren’t disappointed. Not only a night off cooking, but excellent fish balls and smoked fish as well as chicken patties, sausages and several salads all consumed around the camp fire and washed down with ice cold beer and some red wine. We were glad we had taken the trouble to come to Fowlers Bay.

Stranded in Ceduna

Our journey westward continued to Fowlers Bay, however, about 20km from Ceduna, cruising along at about 85km/h we heard and felt what we thought was a blowout. The driver’s side seemed a little saggy, so we pulled up to take a look, but no blowout. So on we went, although things just didn’t seem right. Aha, perhaps one of our rear suspension inflatables had blown - yes, it was the overnight, good news hopefully it’ll only be one night. Our part had to come from Adelaide by road and if we order by 2pm, 99 times out of 100, it’s there the next day and we can be on our way. 

Ceduna is the sort of place you pass through on your way east or west, not much to do. Our caravan park isn’t much to speak of, we’re camped next to some cyclists making there way from Geelong to Broome to raise money for a village in Uganda. We met them in Streaky Bay - hopefully they won’t beat us out of here. 

Our car left at the mechanic and us praying that our parts arrive, we set off to do some shopping. A pair of long awaited shoes for Jem and a much needed replacement pair of thongs for Rubes. A walk along the Jetty and all are ready for a milkshake or cool drink - coffee here is out of the question. Not that it can’t be purchased, just that neither of us is game to try. Instead we decide to wait till we return to the caravan to grind and brew our own. My good friend Jonnos and family, purchased for us, the Aeropress and a grinder, and I have been trying to perfect the brew. It’s definitely getting there. 

An early phone call from the mechanic to say that all was done and I was on my way there. We were back on the road, and in less than 24 hours.

Water creatures round Streaky Bay

Next planned stop was Streaky Bay. With fair weather on the horizon, we were hoping to continue a bit more swimming and fishing. Streaky Bay was the biggest town we had come across since Port Lincoln, even two supermarkets. Since we were running low on a few supplies we decided to lunch out, but being Easter Monday, there wasn’t much open. The Shell servo was our only option given that the Pub had stopped serving lunch already. Reasonable burgers and nuggets and also a full scale replica of the largest white pointer caught on a hand line, you guessed it, right here in Streaky Bay. A 1500+ kg, 5 metre monster - not really a confidence booster for our fledgling swimmers, especially since the next day we had booked in to swim with dolphins and sea lions at Baird Bay, a short drive away. 

We had been looking forward to it for some time, all of us, but unfortunately with all the talk of sharks, Rubes had begun to get cold feet. It was a little overcast when we set off, most of us excited, others a little apprehensive. After a wetsuit fit out, it was onto the boat. 

We met Alan who had been running these tours for over 20 years. No swimming toward the dolphins, no reaching out to touch the seals - remember these are wild animals. And stay close to Mick (one of the guides), cause he’s wearing the shark shield. First it was a swim with the dolphins, a pod of about 20. Jem donned a mask, as did Rubes with snorkel, OJ, of course is an old hand at snorkeling. Both Jem and Rubes hopped into their own float ring and in with the dolphins. It took Jem a little bit of time to work out that he had to put his head under to see the action, but he got it. Trace was a little concerned about the sharks, but swimming with dolphins within arms length, wow!! Needless to say, we stayed close to Mick. 

Amazing how dolphins seemed to have an interest in us. They engaged and played, swam about us, with us, almost as if we were part of the pod. The water was cool, but it didn’t seem to matter. We were in and out a few times with the dolphins, OJ keen to get back amongst them every time we left the water. He was really enjoying it. 

Next to the sea lion colony. Lots on the rocks and the sand, but not too many in the water. Alan decided we should be patient and just watch from the boat for a while. One of the guides got into the water and attempted to coax some of these gracious animals in to play without success. As we motored close to shore, Alan recognised a young female sea lion, known as Psycho, on the beach. In went Mick and out into the shallows came Psycho. We all followed in to the water for a session of play with Psycho, who spent about 25 minutes frolicking with us. Her beautiful wide eyes fixed on us curiously as she glided effortlessly through the water. Watching her at such close range, still on the bottom and then blow bubbles out her mouth as she floated to the surface was an unforgettable experience. OJ’s appetite whetted, now he’s talking about swimming with humpbacks in Tonga.  

Back at the caravan park, whilst Oscar did some school work, Rubes and Jem disappeared to the games room with a wad of cash, in coins. Rubes has very responsibly been making careful and considered decisions as to how she spends her money. After a period of absence, Dad thought he’d better investigate what the two were up to. Both were discovered playing the ‘claw and dump’ which involves dropping an open claw into a mountain of mini chocolate bars and then deliver the catch onto a ramp which has a sliding platform which then pushes the sweets into a chute. Rubes had inserted $10 into the machine and had, so far, only gathered a couple of bars. Of course, no explanation from me that she could purchase far more chocolate bars with her $10 than she could ever hope to win in the ‘claw and dump’ could convince her that the thrill and fun of challenge wasn’t worth every cent. 

Oscar was snowed under with work that afternoon, and so the rest of us had a cycle/walk into town before dinner. On the way we caught up with a couple who were camped next to us in Elliston. They had lent us a few DVDs that we needed to return. 

Our last day in Streaky Bay was a little cool and overcast, so we decided to take a drive to one of the neighbouring bays and to Murphy’s Haystacks, some rocky outcrops amongst the wheat farms. Sceale Bay was accessible via an unsealed road and we had considered free camping there as it had sounded like a good spot and it wasn’t bad at all. A short walk along the beach and Rubes collected a few small, but pretty shells. Then we carried on to Murphy’s Haystacks, narrowly missing a shingle back crossing the road. 

Elliston suprise

Another hop along the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula brought us to Elliston. Tracey in her wisdom thought that after a few days without a shower and  the Easter long weekend fast approaching, we should book into a caravan park to freshen up and avoid missing out on a site. Chance would have it that not only was Elliston a really pretty little town, but the van park we stayed in had both thick green grass upon which to lay our feet and wonderful shady trees as well. 

We landed an excellent site at which to spend the busy Easter weekend. Situated on Waterloo Bay, nearly two thirds enclosed with a reef at its mouth and a long jetty opposite, the surrounding coastline is just how you imagine the Bight to be - tall steep, stony cliffs rising out of the frothy seas of the Southern Ocean. A drive along the cliff tops was followed by a rather unsuccessful fishing expedition off the jetty. 

The peddled go-karts at the park were a huge hit with the kids as was the jumping pillow. And the abundance of other children on their Easter break made for some competitive cricket. Oscar was popular with the boys and rallied them to the pitch in front of our van for several sessions before tea. Jem made himself a little friend who was also interested in Lego with a Star Wars theme. 

Saturday morning markets were a hit with Rubes and Trace who both got a hot henna tattoo. A visit to the op shop, where Josh picked up a jacket and Jem scored a shirt, followed by a play at the playground and a short spell of rain saw us ready for a dinner of crumbed calamari and BBQ squid (bought not caught) - not a bad day all up!

Oysters and matzah balls in Coffin Bay

Our departure from Port Lincoln was preceded by a visit to a local seafood market where we stocked up on tuna steaks, calamari, and prawns. The drive to Coffin Bay was an easy one in good weather. Coffin Bay was a welcome sleepy seaside town after the “big smoke” of Port Lincoln. The calm waters of the bay, dotted with sand islands, small boats and yachts moored about the bay and oyster leases all held great promise for our stay. A quick stop at the general store and half a dozen freshly shucked oysters, given their high repute, and we made our beyond town to the National Park.  

The National Park mostly comprises a coastal landscape. High, windswept cliffs, massive dunes and pounding surf beaches of the Southern Ocean contrast with sheltered bays. Away from the coast there are sand dunes and limestone pavements. Patches of sheoak and low-lying samphire swamps.  Our campsite was located by a small shallow bay, unfortunately, not so great for swimming due to its soft shores in which we quickly sank to our mid-calves. The campground, however, was virtually empty apart from two or three other caravans. We had brought enough water to last us for a few days due to the lack of running water here. Thankfully, pit toilets meant we didn’t have to crank up the van latrine, which is yet to be broken in.  

Our first night in Coffin Bay was the first night of Passover, so we celebrated with the traditional reading of the story of Pesach, probably the first witnessed by the kangaroos of Coffin Bay. Tracey made a superb chicken soup replete with excellent matzah balls. Our seder (ceremonial) plate was complete with all the usual suspects except for the lamb shank, which was replaced with a paper namesake. Dinner was comprised of tuna steaks seared on the BBQ. 

The only small hitch was the swarms of bees attracted to our sweet feast, that forced us to seek shelter indoors. The bees, in abundance, were to be a constant feature at our campsite, to the point where we simply accepted their presence and carried on with our business.

Dad’s trip back to Sydney had resulted in a few drop offs and pick ups and the blog would not be complete without mention of Jem’s new fashion accessory purchased by mail via Nanna. Now Jem had been asking about his jacket for weeks prior to my departure for Sydney and I was given strict instructions that I was not to return without 2 important items: one being the jacket, the second being a Lego set which was also due to arrive via mail. Despite its formal appearance, Jem has not missed an opportunity to don his navy sports coat complete with gold buttons and hence it must be included here for posterity. 

The following day was fine and warm (which didn’t stop Jem from wearing his jacket), so after a bit of schoolwork we set off to look for a suitable place to wet ourselves in the clear blue waters around Coffin Bay.  We drove the southern shores of the park and found the spectacularly inviting waters of Almonta Beach. 

A large pod of about 25 dolphins were swimming in the shallow waters made us even more eager to get wet. Refreshingly cool, clear water and the gentle surf made this one of the most memorable ocean swims of the trip so far. The beautiful blue skies, warm autumn sun, soft white sand, off shore islands, azure water with dolphins, and later solitary sea lion, azure water made this magic afternoon a benchmark for all of us. 

During the remainder of our stay in Coffin we hoped for a similar afternoon, but it wasn’t to be.