Parents in Port Douglas

So with Josh back with the family once again we headed north for a rendezvous with Dave and Rose in Port Douglas.  Our first challenge was negotiating the coastal bends with caravan in toe to Port Douglas in drizzly tropic weather.  With the great rainforests of the north rising steeply up from the coast and the road literally skirting the beach, the coastal vistas as one navigates north are spectacular.  We had considered leaving the caravan in Cairns, but our journey's direction following our stay in Port Douglas was uncertain and so we thought it best to keep it with us.  As usual, it would have been a faster and easier journey without it and Trace would have had a few less grey hairs following our arrival in PD.

Thankfully it was a short drive and we arrived before the grandparents as planned.  We had been assured by the agent in Port Douglas there would be room within the complex to park the van.  After some difficulty actually getting into the gated complex we squeezed the van into a quiet corner of the parking area with just enough clearance for vehicles to pass around.  We left our contact details on the door in case there were any issues with access, but most of the villas appeared empty and so we figured it would be ok.

The villa was great, Trace and I had a great double bedroom upstairs with ensuite and spa bath.  All the kids downstairs with grandparents - just how they would like it.   Pool just  beside our villa, a small courtyard with BBQ which backed onto a grassy reserve with park and then the beach.  We had chosen well for a week of more space and a bit of luxury.

After shifting most of our pantry into the villa from the van, Nanna and Pappa showed up and were naturally ecstatic to see the kids and us.  They had not seen Trace and the kids for 7 months, so there were smiles all around.  Obligatory gifts from grandparents were expected and the kids weren't disappointed.  Our next few days were partly planned, Trace had been doing her research whilst in Cairns and Josh was away.  Must do's included the cable car up to Kuranda and the train back down, a trip to the Daintree, Mosman Gorge, markets and fishing charter - a lot to cram into a week.  Coupled with these activities would be regular sampling from the multitude of local eateries and plenty of ice cream.  We were beginning to feel that we had returned to civilisation and to be honest, there was certainly something different about being back on the east coast of the country - it was both a blessing and a curse.  

Coconut crazy in Cairns

Cairns was typically hot and sticky when we arrived and after settling in, we were off again to take Josh to the airport. And, in usual Josh fashion we were running extremely late for the flight. 

We had been given a site next to another family with kids which sounded good until we saw all three of the adults there smoking, screaming and having not much regard for others around. We had already settled in and the caravan was positioned so we weren’t moving. Thankfully two of the adults left after the weekend and the mother with her kids was actually a very friendly lady. 

The week went past very quickly and although we didn’t do a whole lot, we enjoyed the lagoon in town, the night markets and a few visits to the shops. Ruby had found the ice-cream shops and in particular Cold Rock Ice-creamery, and all were happy. 

The Coconut Palms Park was amazing once again for a Big4 caravan park. With kids activities, outdoor movies, games rooms, free pancake mornings, go karts and a huge water park, the kids were kept amused for hours. 

Finally Josh was home and we were getting excited about our next destination, Port Douglas. A bit of luxury with Rose and Davo at the Villa on the beach was just what the doctor ordered. In fact he actually did!

A taste of the Tablelands

As we edged toward Atherton, the hot scorched countryside gave way to more vegetation and a slightly cooler clime, both of which were most welcome.  A few days in the heat of outback Queensland during early October and we were ready for a taste of coastal weather.  Ravenshoe, was our first foray into the Atherton Tableland. At 930m above sea level, it is the highest town in Queensland.  After a short stop at the information centre in Ravenshoe it was on to our final destination for the day, Atherton itself.  It was a beautiful drive through rolling hills of green dairy country, peppered with pockets of tropical rainforest.  The road with all its twists and tight turns was not really ideal for towing a 21-foot caravan, but we simply took it slow and eventually arrived at our the Big 4 in Atherton, a short drive out of the centre of town. 

It was now October 8 and despite feeling the rising heat of the imminent outback summer in Western Queensland, the weather at elevations of 750m sat in the mid to high twenties during the day and was exceedingly pleasant with cool nights.  After setting up camp we were eager to get exploring the surrounds which we would discover had much to offer and eventually enticed us into thinking quite seriously about a more permanent sea change.  Into town for an orientation, a stop at the information centre and a shop for food supplies.  We also found the Crystal Caves in the main street, home of the world’s biggest amethyst geode, the Empress of Uruguay, which is eleven feet tall and weighs in at two and a half tonnes.  Apart from the Empress, the shop had an impressive collection of gems, crystals and precious stones, which gave Josh an idea for Trace’s upcoming birthday present. 

On the way between town and our caravan was the platypus park where allegedly these shy creatures could be seen frequently at both dawn and dusk.  We vowed to make a trip there at the appropriate time to catch a siting. 

After our first cool night’s sleep in several months we decided to drive out to Lake Eacham, one of the 2 large crater lakes just outside of Atherton, for a walk around the fringing rainforest and then a swim. Once again Jem enjoyed passing the time as our tour guide on the walk, talking us through some of the local flora and of the original inhabitants of the rainforest. Butterflies were topical as they were in an abundance, some bigger than the palm of your hand. Following our circumnavigation we had a dip in the cool, clear waters of the lake, cursing ourselves once again for forgetting to bring our snorkeling gear.  

We headed to Malanda for some lunch through some beautiful countryside. We were beginning to appreciate how blessed this part of the country is with its rich, fertile soils, small pockets of rainforest, generous rainfall and a climate in which tropical fruits thrive.  It was a stark contrast with our recent travels in Central Australia and western Queensland.  

Unfortunately, the dairy museum in Malanda closed for the season, which was a little disappointing, but after some local pies Rubes and Trace soon found a shop with lots of treasures to spend some time in.  On the way back to Atherton we made another stop, this time in Yungaburra, a really quaint Tableland village.  The old pub was something really special with restored timber floors and panelling, timber tables and chairs and complete with old style accommodation upstairs. Down the main street and around the bend we found a newly opened retro cafe to recharge with some coffee and milkshakes and talked with the owner about life in and around the Tablelands.  We were full of questions about the trade/barter system that she was linked into with some of the more alternate residents around the area.  We were liking this place more and more. 

The historic village of Herberton was our next day trip.  It boasted the largest private museum collection in Australia and we were not disappointed with its eclectic pieces. There was everything from 19th century classrooms and apothecaries, to old cars, machinery and printing presses.  Interesting and educational and being a Thursday, the perfect venue for a school excursion. 

The day was followed by a trip to a local strawberry farm to select our own choice of ripe, sweet berries from the vines.  We consumed almost a kilo before we left and carted several large punnets home with us, as Josh and the kids began to collect supplies for Trace’s birthday dinner the following evening.  

In the late afternoon/early evening, Josh, Oscar and Jem cycled down to the platypus park in the hope of spotting one of these elusive monotremes.  We didn’t really expect to see one and after combing the creek we had all about given up.  We wandered down to the pool the picnic area overlooking a large pool and spotted not only one, but two small platypuses.  Even though it was dusk and the light was starting to dim, we still  caught some excellent glimpses of them.  The boys were so excited only a little disappointed that mum and Rubes weren’t with us to see them.  These are the only existent mammal that lays eggs instead of giving birth. Also, it is one of the few venomous mammals with the male having a spur on each of its hind limbs that can deliver venom during mating season.  We rushed back to tell the others about our find. 

Trace’s birthday, the last to celebrate on the road, had finally arrived.  The day started with present giving.  The kids had each made vouchers to be redeemed for anything from massages to pedicures and good behaviour for a day.  Trace also got a beautiful large rectangular amethyst which she plans to get set into a ring.  The day was well planned, a walk around the second crater lake in the area, Lake Barrine.  Despite some initial complaints, once we got started they got into their stride.  Well shaded rainforest, some giant trees creating a towering canopy and huge fig tree buttresses made for a walk awe-inspiring proportions that rain forests seem to evoke.  No swimming here, but after some 5km of walking, we were all ready for a birthday lunch at the Lake Barrine Tea House.  Sitting on the deck of the 1930‘s timber tea house overlooking the lake, Josh was reminded very much of his visits to some of the hill stations in India many years ago. Lunch was pretty good, however, we could not linger as we had supplies to gather for dinner, which Oscar had predicted would be ‘epic’. 

We sent Rubes and Trace off to look for platypus and got busy preparing a 3-course meal starting with assorted antipasti, Turkish bread with zatar and olive oil, followed by Moroccan lamb with mint yoghurt, couscous with dates, honey glazed mini-carrots and roasted asparagus, and for desert meringue with vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberry puree. It was EPIC! But the evening was still young and a night of original entertainment commenced including some novel dance routines from our resident Michael Jackson impersonator, Jem. 

Visits to Mareeba market and Tolga saw us at the end of our 5-day stay in the Atherton Tablelands.  It was on to Cairns where Josh would fly out to Sydney for a week of work.  In the interim, the rest of the expedition would remain in tropical Cairns.  

Aye Karumba

After a very relaxing few days in the beauty of Lawn Hill, we were headed north via Normanton to the popular fishing town of Karumba, in the Gulf of Carpentaria. After a long drive along the corrugated dirt road we were back on the Burke Development Road and a quick stop at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse for some lunch. The usual burger, fries and soft drink was the order of the day and we were off.

The development road is predominantly surrounded by cattle country and at times we needed to slow down or pull over for cows crossing and Jackeroos herding their cattle to areas with more vegetation. It was an interesting drive but after 5 hours we were happy to get to Karumba and to what seemed like a really quaint, quiet fishing village. 

We were told by other caravaners to stay at the Sunset Point Caravan Park as it was so close to the beach and a great place to watch the sun set over the gulf. We were only there overnight as we needed to make our way across the Savannah Way to get to Cairns for Josh to fly home.

Apparently in the fishing season the town is packed with fisho’s but on the night we arrived it was just packed with people in town to watch the grand finals of the rugby league. After settling in at the caravan park we decided to head out for dinner. The local pub on the beach was absolutely packed and the atmosphere was full of excitement. Unfortunately we were a little late for sunset, but nonetheless it was a good meal and a nice place to have said we’ve visited. 

The next morning we were off along the Savanah Way headed for an overnight stopover in Mt Surprise, gem country.

We had been warned that the road at times would be single lane and to make sure we move right off the road if a road train approached and they were right. The road trains were at least 50 metres long and at times really rocked the car when passing. It was an incredibly hot day and the countryside looked dusty and dry. Cow carcasses were a common sight along the road with the drought certainly taking its toll for the farmers.

Finally we arrived at Bedrock Caravan Park and a welcome relief to see the pool and some beautifully kept gardens and caravan sites. The owners were horticulturists and keen butterfly enthusiasts so many of the plants around the caravan were butterfly attracting. They were really quite beautiful to see in the midst of a very dry landscape.

After a wasted walk to a slimy creek (recommended by the owners) we quickly made our way back to the pool where a cool dip was definitely in need with the temperature in the late 30’s and climbing. 

Thankfully we were able to tune into X-factor on the communal TV and together with a great tuna pasta we settled in for the night. Just before turning the lights off there was a herd of very large cows surrounding the caravans and enjoying the bountiful plant life that the owners had so lovingly cared for. 

We woke the next morning to another hot dry day and journeyed excitedly onwards to the Atherton tablelands.