Parents in Port Douglas

So with Josh back with the family once again we headed north for a rendezvous with Dave and Rose in Port Douglas.  Our first challenge was negotiating the coastal bends with caravan in toe to Port Douglas in drizzly tropic weather.  With the great rainforests of the north rising steeply up from the coast and the road literally skirting the beach, the coastal vistas as one navigates north are spectacular.  We had considered leaving the caravan in Cairns, but our journey's direction following our stay in Port Douglas was uncertain and so we thought it best to keep it with us.  As usual, it would have been a faster and easier journey without it and Trace would have had a few less grey hairs following our arrival in PD.

Thankfully it was a short drive and we arrived before the grandparents as planned.  We had been assured by the agent in Port Douglas there would be room within the complex to park the van.  After some difficulty actually getting into the gated complex we squeezed the van into a quiet corner of the parking area with just enough clearance for vehicles to pass around.  We left our contact details on the door in case there were any issues with access, but most of the villas appeared empty and so we figured it would be ok.

The villa was great, Trace and I had a great double bedroom upstairs with ensuite and spa bath.  All the kids downstairs with grandparents - just how they would like it.   Pool just  beside our villa, a small courtyard with BBQ which backed onto a grassy reserve with park and then the beach.  We had chosen well for a week of more space and a bit of luxury.

After shifting most of our pantry into the villa from the van, Nanna and Pappa showed up and were naturally ecstatic to see the kids and us.  They had not seen Trace and the kids for 7 months, so there were smiles all around.  Obligatory gifts from grandparents were expected and the kids weren't disappointed.  Our next few days were partly planned, Trace had been doing her research whilst in Cairns and Josh was away.  Must do's included the cable car up to Kuranda and the train back down, a trip to the Daintree, Mosman Gorge, markets and fishing charter - a lot to cram into a week.  Coupled with these activities would be regular sampling from the multitude of local eateries and plenty of ice cream.  We were beginning to feel that we had returned to civilisation and to be honest, there was certainly something different about being back on the east coast of the country - it was both a blessing and a curse.  

Coconut crazy in Cairns

Cairns was typically hot and sticky when we arrived and after settling in, we were off again to take Josh to the airport. And, in usual Josh fashion we were running extremely late for the flight. 

We had been given a site next to another family with kids which sounded good until we saw all three of the adults there smoking, screaming and having not much regard for others around. We had already settled in and the caravan was positioned so we weren’t moving. Thankfully two of the adults left after the weekend and the mother with her kids was actually a very friendly lady. 

The week went past very quickly and although we didn’t do a whole lot, we enjoyed the lagoon in town, the night markets and a few visits to the shops. Ruby had found the ice-cream shops and in particular Cold Rock Ice-creamery, and all were happy. 

The Coconut Palms Park was amazing once again for a Big4 caravan park. With kids activities, outdoor movies, games rooms, free pancake mornings, go karts and a huge water park, the kids were kept amused for hours. 

Finally Josh was home and we were getting excited about our next destination, Port Douglas. A bit of luxury with Rose and Davo at the Villa on the beach was just what the doctor ordered. In fact he actually did!

A taste of the Tablelands

As we edged toward Atherton, the hot scorched countryside gave way to more vegetation and a slightly cooler clime, both of which were most welcome.  A few days in the heat of outback Queensland during early October and we were ready for a taste of coastal weather.  Ravenshoe, was our first foray into the Atherton Tableland. At 930m above sea level, it is the highest town in Queensland.  After a short stop at the information centre in Ravenshoe it was on to our final destination for the day, Atherton itself.  It was a beautiful drive through rolling hills of green dairy country, peppered with pockets of tropical rainforest.  The road with all its twists and tight turns was not really ideal for towing a 21-foot caravan, but we simply took it slow and eventually arrived at our the Big 4 in Atherton, a short drive out of the centre of town. 

It was now October 8 and despite feeling the rising heat of the imminent outback summer in Western Queensland, the weather at elevations of 750m sat in the mid to high twenties during the day and was exceedingly pleasant with cool nights.  After setting up camp we were eager to get exploring the surrounds which we would discover had much to offer and eventually enticed us into thinking quite seriously about a more permanent sea change.  Into town for an orientation, a stop at the information centre and a shop for food supplies.  We also found the Crystal Caves in the main street, home of the world’s biggest amethyst geode, the Empress of Uruguay, which is eleven feet tall and weighs in at two and a half tonnes.  Apart from the Empress, the shop had an impressive collection of gems, crystals and precious stones, which gave Josh an idea for Trace’s upcoming birthday present. 

On the way between town and our caravan was the platypus park where allegedly these shy creatures could be seen frequently at both dawn and dusk.  We vowed to make a trip there at the appropriate time to catch a siting. 

After our first cool night’s sleep in several months we decided to drive out to Lake Eacham, one of the 2 large crater lakes just outside of Atherton, for a walk around the fringing rainforest and then a swim. Once again Jem enjoyed passing the time as our tour guide on the walk, talking us through some of the local flora and of the original inhabitants of the rainforest. Butterflies were topical as they were in an abundance, some bigger than the palm of your hand. Following our circumnavigation we had a dip in the cool, clear waters of the lake, cursing ourselves once again for forgetting to bring our snorkeling gear.  

We headed to Malanda for some lunch through some beautiful countryside. We were beginning to appreciate how blessed this part of the country is with its rich, fertile soils, small pockets of rainforest, generous rainfall and a climate in which tropical fruits thrive.  It was a stark contrast with our recent travels in Central Australia and western Queensland.  

Unfortunately, the dairy museum in Malanda closed for the season, which was a little disappointing, but after some local pies Rubes and Trace soon found a shop with lots of treasures to spend some time in.  On the way back to Atherton we made another stop, this time in Yungaburra, a really quaint Tableland village.  The old pub was something really special with restored timber floors and panelling, timber tables and chairs and complete with old style accommodation upstairs. Down the main street and around the bend we found a newly opened retro cafe to recharge with some coffee and milkshakes and talked with the owner about life in and around the Tablelands.  We were full of questions about the trade/barter system that she was linked into with some of the more alternate residents around the area.  We were liking this place more and more. 

The historic village of Herberton was our next day trip.  It boasted the largest private museum collection in Australia and we were not disappointed with its eclectic pieces. There was everything from 19th century classrooms and apothecaries, to old cars, machinery and printing presses.  Interesting and educational and being a Thursday, the perfect venue for a school excursion. 

The day was followed by a trip to a local strawberry farm to select our own choice of ripe, sweet berries from the vines.  We consumed almost a kilo before we left and carted several large punnets home with us, as Josh and the kids began to collect supplies for Trace’s birthday dinner the following evening.  

In the late afternoon/early evening, Josh, Oscar and Jem cycled down to the platypus park in the hope of spotting one of these elusive monotremes.  We didn’t really expect to see one and after combing the creek we had all about given up.  We wandered down to the pool the picnic area overlooking a large pool and spotted not only one, but two small platypuses.  Even though it was dusk and the light was starting to dim, we still  caught some excellent glimpses of them.  The boys were so excited only a little disappointed that mum and Rubes weren’t with us to see them.  These are the only existent mammal that lays eggs instead of giving birth. Also, it is one of the few venomous mammals with the male having a spur on each of its hind limbs that can deliver venom during mating season.  We rushed back to tell the others about our find. 

Trace’s birthday, the last to celebrate on the road, had finally arrived.  The day started with present giving.  The kids had each made vouchers to be redeemed for anything from massages to pedicures and good behaviour for a day.  Trace also got a beautiful large rectangular amethyst which she plans to get set into a ring.  The day was well planned, a walk around the second crater lake in the area, Lake Barrine.  Despite some initial complaints, once we got started they got into their stride.  Well shaded rainforest, some giant trees creating a towering canopy and huge fig tree buttresses made for a walk awe-inspiring proportions that rain forests seem to evoke.  No swimming here, but after some 5km of walking, we were all ready for a birthday lunch at the Lake Barrine Tea House.  Sitting on the deck of the 1930‘s timber tea house overlooking the lake, Josh was reminded very much of his visits to some of the hill stations in India many years ago. Lunch was pretty good, however, we could not linger as we had supplies to gather for dinner, which Oscar had predicted would be ‘epic’. 

We sent Rubes and Trace off to look for platypus and got busy preparing a 3-course meal starting with assorted antipasti, Turkish bread with zatar and olive oil, followed by Moroccan lamb with mint yoghurt, couscous with dates, honey glazed mini-carrots and roasted asparagus, and for desert meringue with vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberry puree. It was EPIC! But the evening was still young and a night of original entertainment commenced including some novel dance routines from our resident Michael Jackson impersonator, Jem. 

Visits to Mareeba market and Tolga saw us at the end of our 5-day stay in the Atherton Tablelands.  It was on to Cairns where Josh would fly out to Sydney for a week of work.  In the interim, the rest of the expedition would remain in tropical Cairns.  

Aye Karumba

After a very relaxing few days in the beauty of Lawn Hill, we were headed north via Normanton to the popular fishing town of Karumba, in the Gulf of Carpentaria. After a long drive along the corrugated dirt road we were back on the Burke Development Road and a quick stop at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse for some lunch. The usual burger, fries and soft drink was the order of the day and we were off.

The development road is predominantly surrounded by cattle country and at times we needed to slow down or pull over for cows crossing and Jackeroos herding their cattle to areas with more vegetation. It was an interesting drive but after 5 hours we were happy to get to Karumba and to what seemed like a really quaint, quiet fishing village. 

We were told by other caravaners to stay at the Sunset Point Caravan Park as it was so close to the beach and a great place to watch the sun set over the gulf. We were only there overnight as we needed to make our way across the Savannah Way to get to Cairns for Josh to fly home.

Apparently in the fishing season the town is packed with fisho’s but on the night we arrived it was just packed with people in town to watch the grand finals of the rugby league. After settling in at the caravan park we decided to head out for dinner. The local pub on the beach was absolutely packed and the atmosphere was full of excitement. Unfortunately we were a little late for sunset, but nonetheless it was a good meal and a nice place to have said we’ve visited. 

The next morning we were off along the Savanah Way headed for an overnight stopover in Mt Surprise, gem country.

We had been warned that the road at times would be single lane and to make sure we move right off the road if a road train approached and they were right. The road trains were at least 50 metres long and at times really rocked the car when passing. It was an incredibly hot day and the countryside looked dusty and dry. Cow carcasses were a common sight along the road with the drought certainly taking its toll for the farmers.

Finally we arrived at Bedrock Caravan Park and a welcome relief to see the pool and some beautifully kept gardens and caravan sites. The owners were horticulturists and keen butterfly enthusiasts so many of the plants around the caravan were butterfly attracting. They were really quite beautiful to see in the midst of a very dry landscape.

After a wasted walk to a slimy creek (recommended by the owners) we quickly made our way back to the pool where a cool dip was definitely in need with the temperature in the late 30’s and climbing. 

Thankfully we were able to tune into X-factor on the communal TV and together with a great tuna pasta we settled in for the night. Just before turning the lights off there was a herd of very large cows surrounding the caravans and enjoying the bountiful plant life that the owners had so lovingly cared for. 

We woke the next morning to another hot dry day and journeyed excitedly onwards to the Atherton tablelands. 

Beautiful Boodjamulla

We were off early driving toward Mt Isa with the aim of reaching Cloncurry and then heading north-west to Lawn Hill NP.  Given that Jem’s rash had persisted and we were passing the last hospital of a reasonable size for more than a week, Trace was keen to pay Mt Isa emergency department a visit.  We waited about an hour to get see a doctor and, once again, in the pleasant air conditioned climate of the waiting room, the rash just about disappeared. Feeling a bit of a fraud, Josh explained the story twice, once to a registrar and then to an ED consultants. All were in agreement, the most likely cause was a post viral rash. After a patient wait at the hospital, we rewarded all the kids with Subway and continued toward Cloncurry. Josh had bad heartburn on the way and by the time we reached Cloncurry he was looking pretty crook. He appeared to be succumbing to the dreaded tummy. He struggled through the evening and night, including a couple of projectile vomits. By morning he was well enough to travel on.  

A long day drive and we arrived at Gregory Downs, at which point we promptly decided to continue on to Lawn Hill. It was another 80km along an unsealed road.  An operational zinc mine was located about 30km long and the mining company maintained the road in excellent condition to the mine turn off.  Beyond the mine the road deteriorated and we shuddered along intermittent corrugations, hoping that it would all be worth it. It had been a long and the kids were exhausted.  Adels Grove was located just outside Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill NP) and we had the option of staying in the Grove, which was unpowered but beautifully shaded, or set up in a generator area which was completely unshaded. Given the weather we had thus far experienced in western QLD, the shade of the Grove and its proximity to the creek and swimming hole, we were keener on the Grove. Only problem being that we weren’t sure our van battery would go the distance and we had been having problems with our car fridge which we assumed was due to the end of life of the deep cycle marine battery in the Landcruiser. In the end we decided to chance it in the Grove and we didn’t regret it. 

The Grove was declared a miners lease in 1920, but by 1930 the lease had been purchased by Albert De Lestang, a French botanist, who it is thought, was commissioned by the government of the time to experiment with the growing of tropical trees and fruits.  By 1939 he had in excess of 1,000 different species of trees and shrubs, many of which were imported from Africa, Asia and tropical America. It is said by those locals who knew Albert and had visited him that he had created a most beautiful botanic garden. The Adels part of the property name is taken from his initials. Although many of the of the exotic shrubs and trees, in particular the fruit trees, have succumbed to lack of irrigation, fires and termites, there still remains a lovely shaded area within the original grove.  

We set up within 20 metres of the creek and headed straight for an early evening swim in the spring fed creek. It was luxurious and the perfect start to our 4 night stay at Adels Grove/Lawn Hill.  The first night was a very peaceful one, very quiet apart from the rushing water over some small rapids to the rear of our van. We discovered, however, that the Grove was also home to a substantial population of cane toads and once Trace had told the kids stories of her toad busting exploits from her days working for Qld Parks and Wildlife Sevice, they were keen to annihilate as many toads as possible. 

The first morning was spent in the water hole just near our van site. There was a pontoon made of oil barrels which we lazed around in the sun on along with inner tubes and noodles. 

The kids chose some sticks that they fashioned into toad harpoons with Josh’s assistance. In the afternoon, we drove in to Lawn Hill to check it out. We found the canoe hire spot and another top spot to cool off. Aside from the Grove and the flora on the banks of the creek, the landscape was as dry and sparse. As we swam, we spotted a pair of kingfishers high up in the trees and a few cheeky red tailed cockatoos flew in by the bank to feed on gum nuts.  

Having sussed out the canoes we decided to hire a couple the following morning and take a trip up the Gorge. It was spectacularly lush as we set out, with large gums and pandanus lining the banks, followed by the high gorge walls and then onto some beautiful cascading falls that beckoned us in for a swim. Crystal clear water with archer fish nibbling at our toes, it was the perfect spot to cool off before dragging our canoes 70m along the bank to the upper reaches of the spring fed waterway. On the return leg we had another swim at the falls and we were beginning to appreciate the true magnificence of this place.  Not only were we camped in an idyllic place, but the Gorge was a stunning oasis, up there with some of the best we had come across. 

After our morning out canoeing and swimming all were fairly tired, but as night fell the kids were still keen to go out and spear some cane toads, so off we went. Our first night hunting toads and our combined tally reached eight. 

Trace and I were keen to walk up the Gorge the following day, and despite vigorous protestations from Jem, a walk was embarked upon. We had left our start a little late as it was already getting quite hot and once we had completed the first 500m we were beginning to climb and were fairly exposed. As usual, once they got going, they walked well. Up onto the walls of the gorge to reveal some excellent views from above. Of course, what helped keep the kids going was the reward of a swim at the end of the walk and we were cooked by the time we reached the spot we had swam the day before. It was once again spectacular and we had the place to ourselves.

A bit more swimming, Jem practiced his snorkeling and Rubes and Josh even had a fish - Rubes caught a flathead gobi. A long weekend was approaching and the Grove started to fill up, it was time to move on, but we’d enjoyed our time at Lawn Hill immensely and we’ll remember it for a long time to come. 

En Route East to the Sunshine State

After a night with Jem and Oscar vomiting, rather than pressing on with our journey, we had a rest day in Alice.  We washed everything down in the caravan, Glen 20 spray all over and a lot of boiled rice, everyone was finally on the improve. 

Next drama for the Raths was a nasty post viral rash that managed to cover poor Jem from head to toe every part of poor Jem's body. As we drove out of the caravan park the next morning on our way to Tennant Creek the rash was clearing slowly.  As the day got hotter though, the rash became more angry and inflamed and incredibly itchy despite oral anti-histamine, topical cream and also oral steroids. It was disappearing and reappearing quite rapidly, but he seemed perfectly well otherwise. Trace was getting pretty worried about its cause, Josh, as usual, was accused of being blase and disinterested - he had reasonably confidently diagnosed this as a post viral rash.

A quick stop at Wycliff Well, the UFO capital of Australia and we were back on the road towards our night stop. 

As we pulled into Tennant Creek, Trace thought that given our remoteness over the ensuing days of travel, it would be wise to take Jem to Tennant Creek emergency department. The next nearest hospital was Mt Isa, nearly 1000 km to the east. Jem was keen on a trip to hospital, it seemed a novelty. After a phone call to the hospital to confirm they indeed had a 24-hour emergency department, we fronted up at a very new facility.  The triage nurse looked familiar to Josh, but a prior meeting as highly unlikely. In the cool air conditioning of the hospital the rash seemed to be settling and after some questioning from the nurse, it was far less red and inflamed. Enquiry was made as to whether the rumours we had heard about a gastroenteritis outbreak at the place we were staying in Uluru could be confirmed and the nurse admitted she wasn’t sure as she had just returned from NSW.  A bit more chatting and as it turns out the nurse was someone had met before, a nurse who had worked for quite some time at both Royal North Shore as well as Hornsby Hospital.  What are the chances of that. 



Anyhow, Jem’s rash. Well after all this banter, the rash had really settled down and, although still present, we agreed that the current regime of treatment should continue and left without seeing a doctor. Jem had his temperature taken and we were on our way home, thankfully without waiting for long. 


Traveling eastward was hot and dry and as we approached the border we noted the endless fencing on either side of the road. This was cattle country in a big way, even though the landscape seemed far from suited to sustaining cattle.  The almost continuous fencing line was to be a feature throughout western Queensland and the Gulf savannah - very different to anywhere else we had been in the outback. Jem was for some reason very excited about our crossing into Queensland. It was good that he had something to be excited about, because in the heat his rash had returned just about all over him and the itch was starting to bother him. About 150km out of Tennant Creek Trace was once again worried about the rash, cursing me for not having had an emergency doctor look at him in Tennant Creek, doubting the dermatological/infectious disease diagnostic capability of her anaesthetist husband, and seriously considering whether we should turn back given that the next hospital was probably Mt Isa, some 800 km east.  Eventually, Jem fell asleep and unfortunately fell asleep before the crossing into Queensland arrived. It was September 30. 

Our first overnight in the Sunshine State was spent in sleepy Camooweal.  The kids had been promised a pool at the caravan park in Camooweal, so were a little disappointed when we pulled up with no pool in sight. Thankfully we had fronted up at the wrong caravan park. The one with the pool, we were informed with regret by the proprietor, was down the road and across the street. Hallelujah, we found the only pool between Tennant Creek and Mt Isa. A little dusty, but a hugely welcome relief from our hot drive. Once again the kids couldn't wait to get their gear off and jump in. Jem’s rash enjoyed a cool off in the pool and after a few beers, we headed of the the pub out the front which did dinner and, apparently, had a reasonable cook. Thankfully they had a TV that worked so the kids could watch X Factor.  Although a mother with a young baby looked at us worryingly as we sat down for dinner with a child that looked as if he had an infectious dose of measles, it was a pleasant night with the locals. 

Not much to Camooweal - a hotel with post office attached, two caravan parks, fuel station, a general store and cattle stations as far as the eye could see. 

Intrepid walkers in Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon)

After a slightly hair-raising drive with Trace overtaking a driver doing 60 in a 100 km zone, someone pulling out next to her at the same time and the caravan swaying back and forth behind us, we finally arrived safely at Kings Canyon. Closer inspection of the van, the inside to be precise, revealed a kitchen and dining area covered in flour, coffee, sugar, salt, cous cous, bread crumbs and more - the result of our highway altercation. 

The resort was in a beautiful location with the canyon walls in the backdrop over 100 metres high. Again, the colours in the afternoon of the rock were magnificent. In fact the backdrop was used in the movie Priscilla and some of the cast were flown in by helicopter to land on the very top of the canyon.

In the afternoon we went into the canyon and did a short walk called the Kings Creek Walk which was only a 2km walk but traced the bottom of the gorge through the dry creek bed and finishing at a viewing platform. Part of the Gorge is a sacred Aboriginal site so visitors are discouraged to walk any further or stray from the path.

After a good night sleep we were ready for our early morning start of 7am to begin the Kings Canyon Rim Walk This is by far the most impressive walk in Kings Canyon. It takes you around the rim of the canyons sandstone walls, which formed when small cracks over time eroded to create the spectacular Canyons we have today.

To begin the walk we climbed what locals call Heartbreak Hill or Heart-attack Hill. Hoping neither of these things would occur we managed to get up in fairly good time. The kids as usual showing their parents how it is done. Even little Jem was a star!

Throughout the walk there were some amazing vantage points to look out and over the white and red sandstone cliffs of the canyon, also allowing you to look down the cliffs edges. The sheer height of these cliffs is 270metres, to put this in perspective; it is almost the same height as Australia’s tallest high-rise in Melbourne city, Eureka Towers.

Sandstone domes can be found throughout the Canyon and look like bee-hives in appearance as well as the impressive weathered formations that resemble the remains of an Aztec city, earning them the name the Lost City.

The Kings Canyon Walk takes you 270 metres down into the chasm, between the sandstone cliffs into a true oasis. Here, a natural spring waterhole surrounded by local and exotic plants and trees such as gums, bonsai looking trees and enormous prehistoric ferns create a truly unique landscape.

Once on the top of the Canyon, the walking was not hard and the kids just loved the sense of satisfaction they had after almost walking 7.5km in the day. Jem christened the top with a bush bog and Rubes unfortunately was starting to exhibit the signs of some bug coming on. A faster descent through sandstone domes reminiscent of the Bungles brought us back to the beginning of the track and a great feeling of accomplishment by all. What a great walk and day.

Ice-creams were definitely called for on the way home before Rubes started an afternoon of severe vomiting and stomach pain. She was even brave enough to get an injection from Daddy! This was going to be the start of another gastro bug for the Rath family. And, although it wasn’t funny at the time we have made up numerous songs to go along with the numerous vomiting episodes we have had on our travels. We were advised that afternoon that apparently a toilet block at Uluru had been closed due to an outbreak of some gastro virus. No wonder, those disgusting teenagers and their hygiene!

Things settled down for Rubes after a few hours and eventually she felt a whole lot better. Thankfully our drive the next day was good for everyone as it was going to be a long and hot one back to Alice for an overnight stay before heading north again.

Pulling into the Big 4 at Alice was welcome relief as we knew it was going to be a nice place to rest for the night. We were mistaken.