We were off early driving toward Mt Isa with the aim of reaching Cloncurry and then heading north-west to Lawn Hill NP. Given that Jem’s rash had persisted and we were passing the last hospital of a reasonable size for more than a week, Trace was keen to pay Mt Isa emergency department a visit. We waited about an hour to get see a doctor and, once again, in the pleasant air conditioned climate of the waiting room, the rash just about disappeared. Feeling a bit of a fraud, Josh explained the story twice, once to a registrar and then to an ED consultants. All were in agreement, the most likely cause was a post viral rash. After a patient wait at the hospital, we rewarded all the kids with Subway and continued toward Cloncurry. Josh had bad heartburn on the way and by the time we reached Cloncurry he was looking pretty crook. He appeared to be succumbing to the dreaded tummy. He struggled through the evening and night, including a couple of projectile vomits. By morning he was well enough to travel on.
A long day drive and we arrived at Gregory Downs, at which point we promptly decided to continue on to Lawn Hill. It was another 80km along an unsealed road. An operational zinc mine was located about 30km long and the mining company maintained the road in excellent condition to the mine turn off. Beyond the mine the road deteriorated and we shuddered along intermittent corrugations, hoping that it would all be worth it. It had been a long and the kids were exhausted. Adels Grove was located just outside Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill NP) and we had the option of staying in the Grove, which was unpowered but beautifully shaded, or set up in a generator area which was completely unshaded. Given the weather we had thus far experienced in western QLD, the shade of the Grove and its proximity to the creek and swimming hole, we were keener on the Grove. Only problem being that we weren’t sure our van battery would go the distance and we had been having problems with our car fridge which we assumed was due to the end of life of the deep cycle marine battery in the Landcruiser. In the end we decided to chance it in the Grove and we didn’t regret it.
The Grove was declared a miners lease in 1920, but by 1930 the lease had been purchased by Albert De Lestang, a French botanist, who it is thought, was commissioned by the government of the time to experiment with the growing of tropical trees and fruits. By 1939 he had in excess of 1,000 different species of trees and shrubs, many of which were imported from Africa, Asia and tropical America. It is said by those locals who knew Albert and had visited him that he had created a most beautiful botanic garden. The Adels part of the property name is taken from his initials. Although many of the of the exotic shrubs and trees, in particular the fruit trees, have succumbed to lack of irrigation, fires and termites, there still remains a lovely shaded area within the original grove.
We set up within 20 metres of the creek and headed straight for an early evening swim in the spring fed creek. It was luxurious and the perfect start to our 4 night stay at Adels Grove/Lawn Hill. The first night was a very peaceful one, very quiet apart from the rushing water over some small rapids to the rear of our van. We discovered, however, that the Grove was also home to a substantial population of cane toads and once Trace had told the kids stories of her toad busting exploits from her days working for Qld Parks and Wildlife Sevice, they were keen to annihilate as many toads as possible.
The first morning was spent in the water hole just near our van site. There was a pontoon made of oil barrels which we lazed around in the sun on along with inner tubes and noodles.
The kids chose some sticks that they fashioned into toad harpoons with Josh’s assistance. In the afternoon, we drove in to Lawn Hill to check it out. We found the canoe hire spot and another top spot to cool off. Aside from the Grove and the flora on the banks of the creek, the landscape was as dry and sparse. As we swam, we spotted a pair of kingfishers high up in the trees and a few cheeky red tailed cockatoos flew in by the bank to feed on gum nuts.
Having sussed out the canoes we decided to hire a couple the following morning and take a trip up the Gorge. It was spectacularly lush as we set out, with large gums and pandanus lining the banks, followed by the high gorge walls and then onto some beautiful cascading falls that beckoned us in for a swim. Crystal clear water with archer fish nibbling at our toes, it was the perfect spot to cool off before dragging our canoes 70m along the bank to the upper reaches of the spring fed waterway. On the return leg we had another swim at the falls and we were beginning to appreciate the true magnificence of this place. Not only were we camped in an idyllic place, but the Gorge was a stunning oasis, up there with some of the best we had come across.
After our morning out canoeing and swimming all were fairly tired, but as night fell the kids were still keen to go out and spear some cane toads, so off we went. Our first night hunting toads and our combined tally reached eight.
Trace and I were keen to walk up the Gorge the following day, and despite vigorous protestations from Jem, a walk was embarked upon. We had left our start a little late as it was already getting quite hot and once we had completed the first 500m we were beginning to climb and were fairly exposed. As usual, once they got going, they walked well. Up onto the walls of the gorge to reveal some excellent views from above. Of course, what helped keep the kids going was the reward of a swim at the end of the walk and we were cooked by the time we reached the spot we had swam the day before. It was once again spectacular and we had the place to ourselves.
A bit more swimming, Jem practiced his snorkeling and Rubes and Josh even had a fish - Rubes caught a flathead gobi. A long weekend was approaching and the Grove started to fill up, it was time to move on, but we’d enjoyed our time at Lawn Hill immensely and we’ll remember it for a long time to come.
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